You want to build your own poker table and are looking for instructions? In the following I will explain step by step which materials and tools you need, how to build your racerack and rail and what else you need to know.
If you like the instructions, I would be very happy about a short comment :) Let's go!
First of all, you should have all the things you are likely to need ready - so that you don't get stuck during the crafting process or even fail to complete the project.
Very important: If you don't understand something or if you think it is not clearly formulated, please don't hesitate to use the comment function - you are certainly not alone with your question!
First, this is what you'll need material-wise
Side note: I have intentionally refrained from using glue. I like more form-fit - lifts at least as well, and if you ever need to change a special part, separating two parts joined with screws is much easier than separating two glued parts.
Unfortunately, clamping the saw in constructions so that it saws where it should, did not lead to success with me - maybe because the blade was not sufficiently rigid.
My recommendation: Draw, and then try to saw along the line. Don't worry if the saw runs off a bit - the only cut that really matters (and that you will see later) is (see below) the one between the railway and the playing field. So do it last and gain experience before you do it.
To draw the circles at the ends, I drilled a hole in the center of each circle (you won't see it later) and then worked with the following "device":
In principle, it is a board fixed centrally with a screw into which you can insert a pencil. ("Board-with-insertion device").
Now it's getting serious:
From the MDF board the upper part of the rail and the base plate (here the feet are screwed on later) are sawn.
The lower (outer) part of the rail, the racetrack (where the cup holders will later be placed) and the playing field are cut from the wood grain panel.
So that you know where to saw (and where there are only visible edges on the construction drawings) here is also a cross-section through the table:
Since you need a starting point for sawing with the jigsaw, it is best to drill 2-3 holes as small as possible with a drill bit to create a kind of slit. Here you can start with the jigsaw. The smaller the holes, the better.
It is best to make a few test drillings on the sawdust - or if there is none yet on the corners. When sawing, remember that the only cut that will really be visible later on (i.e. not covered by foam, leather or anything else) is the inner cut on the wood panel with grain - so be extremely careful here! This "important" cut is the one between the racetrack and the pitch.
First you put the upper and lower part of the rail on top of each other and fix it with at least 4 clamps to prevent it from slipping. But make sure that both parts are aligned with each other without tension. Then screw it tight.
Since the screws do not have to transmit a lot of force here, you need not exaggerate: 20 screws distributed around the circumference should be enough! But make sure - as before - that the screws are just long enough so that they don't pierce but have as much material as possible to bite through.
This is the most difficult and extensive step in building a poker table.
Schaustoff (on top of the shelf) were too little, and 4 cm at the side too much, I could not get around 2 layers, my construction was, like in this sketch or in this picture.
How exactly does the upholstery work now? The following steps:
put your finished rail on your foam Draw with felt-tip pen where you want to cut later. Make sure to leave some space next to the rail itself (at foam2) - after all, you want to fold the foam later. I recommend 10 cm here. If you don't have enough foam - or if you are a Swabian (like me) and therefore want to make the best use of the raw material - to cut out all parts in one piece, i.e. if you have to split one of the 2 ovals, the smaller one (in sketch no. 1) should be the best! Just to make sure that we mean the same here: The smaller one is the "inner" or "lower" foam layer, which will later be covered by the second layer.
now spray the top of the rail properly with spray glue if you have several parts, always only the necessary part. Let the glue dry for a short time (20 sec.) and then press the first foam layer (layer 1) all around the rail.
If you can't do it without wrinkles, don't worry. With two layers of foam this is (in my opinion) almost impossible. Besides, when you play later on, you will only see the inside of the rail in 99% of the cases anyway. For this step, I also strongly advise you to get a second man/woman who shares your enthusiasm for poker - it makes it a lot easier: Let's get started:
spread your leather trim on the floor and place the rail on top of it.
The most difficult part is now behind you - unlike the rail, the playing field is a cinch:
place the board the wrong way round on the foam (now the thinner one) Draw the template with a felt-tip pen - you know it already. But don't leave any space here - draw directly on the edge! Afterwards, simply fold up the board - this way your alignment is maintained.
but do not cut now! Instead, spray the area just marked on the foam and the top of the wooden plate with glue, and then fold the plate back down.
now spread out the field cover (top to bottom) and place the field board with the foam (foam to bottom) on top. Again roughly, with a few centimeters of air (about 10cm, you will have plenty of space just like me) cut it all around.
Let's recap: You already have a padded rail and a ready-covered playing field. Now the only thing missing is the component that holds everything together!
as always: Align the racetrack and table base cleanly to each other and fix it with clamps to avoid slipping. Take care not to scratch the wooden plate of the racetrack when handling it (put a newspaper underneath, etc.)! But do not screw it yet!
draw the holes on the underside - the table base - according to the plan. Here you should work very conscientiously, because mistakes here will later catch your eye.
drill through both (!) boards with a thin drill bit (approx. 4-5mm) at the marked points while you are still braced. This way you make sure that the later holes for the cup holders are also concentrically placed on both plates. The diameter of the holes must never exceed the diameter of the guide drill of your hole saw (otherwise it can no longer act as a guide).
The upper hole (i.e. the hole in the race track) we saw with the hole saw "one size too small" - i.e. here the cup holder does not fit - at least for the beginning. After this hole has been sawn, we now use a fan grinder (see below) to widen the hole to fit exactly (I recommend a press fit, i.e. a tight fit).
We repeat this procedure, i.e. "Saw the lower hole too large" and "Saw the upper hole too small and then expand it with a fan grinder" for all 8 holes.
aligned, it is now screwed on again, preferably with short pre-drilling. Again, make sure that the screws are as long as possible, but do not stick out on the other side. By the way, you don't need to overdo it with screws as I did - 50 distributed around the circumference should be enough, since no large forces are transmitted here either.
Just put everything together and boom: You're done. Congrats! 🙂
If you like my article and/or you have suggestions for improvement (regarding the poker table/ tutorial/ etc.), I would be happy about a comment!
Apart from that: Have fun with handicrafts and successful poker!
At this place I collect pictures of poker tables, which were created because of this tutorial. If you would like to see yours here, you are very welcome to send me a mail!